Personal protective equipment (PPE)

While researching for my post on Disaster kits part one and two I noticed there seems to be general confusion on on the topic of PPE and what kind you need for different purposes. What really hit the nail on the head and promted me to write this post on PPE was when i read a guide on that basically equated a surgical mask and an N95 mask. These two types of masks are not intended for the same purpose at all, but more on that later.

To simplify things i usually divide the threats into 3 main groups:

  • Infectious agents
  • Radiation (or rather radioactive particles)
  • Chemicals and gasses

Some of the groups require the same basic PPE. The easiest to provide protection against are by far particle borne threats such as infectious agents, toxic dust and radioactive particles.

Infectious agents:

When trying to protect against infectious agents knowledge of the specific pathogen is useful, however in most cases fairly cheap single use PPE and some procedures for putting it on and taking it off, will go a long way to protect the wearer from infection. If you want the gear with the best protection available you can easily spend thousands of dollars on positive pressure suits and a self contained air supply, and even then, all it might take to still be infected is a small tear in the suit. The downside of such suits, apart from the pricetag, is limited mobility making a tear fairly likely to occur. Instead i recommend getting the following:

  • plastic apron (outer layer)
  • category 3 and 4 chemical suit (outer layer, taped seams and with double liquid tight closing mechanism)
  • hood that, when combined with a half mask and goggles or a full mask, covers any exposed skin of the face
  • half mask and face shield for non airborne diseases and full mask for airborne diseases (there is a theoretical infection route through the eyes when dealing with an airborne disease) FFP3 or N95 filtering masks are a minimum protection level. A reusable mask fitted with a P3 filter will eliminate 99.95% of all particles.
  • absorbent inner layer (surgical clothing or similar)
  • nitrile gloves (inner layer)
  • long sleeve chemical gloves (outer layer, must provide some mechanical strength as well as act as a barrier)
  • liquid tight footwear (rubber boots)
  • chemical tape for sealing up the openings where gloves or boots meet the suit
  • large garden spray bottle and diluted bleach (used before taking off the PPE and possibly as a decontamination shower after taking off the suit)

The procedure for putting on and taking off the gear is as important as the gear itself, I will cover this in a later post.

Radioactive particles:

There are many types of radiation, some harmless and some harmfull to the human organism. It is however beyond the scope of this blogpost to delve into the specific types of radiation. For those intrested, wikipedia has a fairly easy to understand article on radiation 

In movies you often see actors wearing radiation suits to protect against ionizing radiation. The truth is, that the suits are not designed to protect against radiation itself, as this would require a lead lined suit so heavy that even the Hulk would have a hard time walking around in it. The intended purpose of most radiation suits is to protect against ingesting, inhaling or otherwise bringing back radioactive particles from a contaminated area.

Why are a few specks of radioactive dust so problematic you ask? well radiation follows the inverse-square law meaning if you half the distance to a radiation source, you quadrouple the radiation dose (simply put,  the closer the source of the radiation is to your body the more damage is done). Furthermore radioactive materials can have a very long half-life and thus emit radiation for a very long time increasing the damage done over time.

When trying to protect yourself from radioactive particles the same equipment used to protect against infectious agents can be used (see list above). The only difference is that dousing yourself in bleach is not necessary, instead a thorough decontamination shower before and after taking off the suit is highly recommended.

Chemicals and gasses:

This is the point when choosing the right PPE becomes either complicated, expensive or both. The problem when dealing with chemicals or gasses is that is that you have to know what chemical or gas you want to protect yourself from and the specific concentration of the chemical or gas in the surrounding environment. As an example a standard run of the mill natural rubber glove will offer excellent protection from acid, but very poor protection from organic solvents (ethanol / alcohol will penetrate in a matter of minutes).

I other words this is a preppers nightmare. If worried about an unknown chemical or gaseous threat the only safe bet is basically an airtight heavy duty chemical suit with its own air supply and those are quite expensive. Even with the best gear expect a limited time before the chemical might breach the suit. If you know the specific threat (gas or chemical) you can probably get by with much less as filters and chemical suits are available for a wide range of applications.

A note on filtering masks (respirators):

When dealing with particle contaminants (infectious agents and radioactive or toxic particles) filtering masks are often used. I have seen a lot of suggestions for using a surgical mask for this purpose probably because they are cheap. However surgical masks are intended to protect patients from saliva droplets from the wearer and as such the mask offers little or no protection for the wearer. FFP3 masks and N95 masks are designed to make a tight seal to the wearer’s face and filter out particles from the incoming air. If you want to step up that protection a half or full mask fitted with a P3 filter will, if fitted to the wearer, do better than the single use masks. Keep in mind though that no filter is 100% effective.

A wide range of filters are available for half or full masks that enables you to filter out harmful things such as organic solvents, mercury or inorganic gasses etc. 3M has a good guide for selecting the appropriate filter for a specific purpose.

In conclusion:

For any PPE to be effective you have to know the threat. Sure you can the top of the line gear if you have enough money, but in most cases you will be cumbered to an unnecessary degree by heavy gear. Even the very best PPE will only protect you for a limited amount of time and will not be effective against all threats (radiation for example). When dealing with infectious agents or threats where even small exposures pose a substantial health risk, the proper procedure for putting on and taking off the gear is as important as the gear itself.

Pepper Cookies (Pebernødder)

The most original northern Christmas cookie is the pepper cookie. Before the modern stowe, this was the only cookie you were able to make yourself for Christmas.

The original recipe originates from Germany in the fifteenhundreds  and was made with rye flour, honey and strong spices.

My favorite recipe is from the fantastic Danish bakery Lagkagehuset (The Layered Cake House). The smell, taste and consistensy is perfect and children can easily make them.

Pepper Cookies (about 300 pieces)

  • Butter (2 cups/250 gr.)
  • Sugar (2 cups./250 gr.)
  • Whipping Cream (3.5 fl. oz./1 dl.)
  • Plain flour (18 oz./500 g.)
  • Ground ginger (1 tsp.)
  • Cinnamon (1 tsp.)
  • White or black pepper (1 tsp.) Black pepper will give you a little more umf, which in my opinion is a good thing.
  • Cardamom (1 tsp.)
  • Baking powder (1 tsp.)
  • Baking soda (1 tsp.)

Pepper BisquitsI often use gloves when I bake. This makes it possibly to attend to children in need in an instant. Make sure to use Nitrile rubber gloves approved for food contact. You can get them at about $0.2 a pair and though not as stretchy as rubber, they have a perfect fit.

20151124_203046_resizedWhip butter and sugar together with an electric mixer. Whip the cream in at low settings. Mix spices, baking powder and baking soda into the flour and mix everything together. Roll the dough into sausages (thick as a finger) and cut in small pieces. Roll them into small balls and place them on a baking sheet. Bake for about 7-10 minutes at 400 ºF/200 ºC.

You can freeze the dough for later use. If you flatten the bag it will take up less room in your freezer and will defrost quicker.

Eat them all yourself or give them to friends and family in jars or Danish woven Christmas hearts. Or you can play mouse.

Mouse – a Christmas game

Place a row of cookies on the table. One kid leaves the room and the others name one of the cookies “Mouse” The child is called back in and is allowed to eat until he/she picks the Mouse. At this point everyone yells MOUSE and a new kid leaves the room.

What is your favorite Christmas cookie?

Disaster Kit – Part 2 (shelter in place)

In part 1, I covered the disaster kit for bugging out. In part 2 I will be covering the basics for sheltering in.

The scenario

A major disaster just hit your area and has taken out power and landlines. The water supply is still up, but running on backup power. You have spent years building that model railroad in the basement and there is no way in h*ll you are leaving it for looters to ransack. Time to batten down the hatches and prepare to shelter in place.

There are plenty of scenarios where sheltering in place, is the most sensible choice. It’s likely that the roads are closed or overcrowded with other people trying to leave the area. Scenarios where you expect the disturbance to be over relatively quickly, like weathering a storm and the aftermath, are also prime candidates for using the shelter in place tactic.

The following is what I believe you will need (partly compiled from and

If you already read part one of this guide, you will notice that some items are on both lists. This makes it possible to read them independently.

  • First and foremost, fill up on water as long as the resource is still available. All containers capable of holding potable water should be filled to the brink. Needed amount of water: One gallon per person (about 4 liters) per day (minimum 14-day supply for sheltering in place)
  • Food: Non-perishable, easy-to-prepare items (14-day supply for sheltering in place)
  • A way to prepare food (camp stove or similar, remember fuel aswell)
  • Headlamp and/or flashlight (I recommend a good headlamp to keep your hands free)
  • Candles or other illumination source
  • Plywood panels for covering windows and/or doors (mostly useful in storms and for complicating entry from the outside)
  • Battery-powered or hand-crank radio
  • Extra batteries
  • First aid kit
  • Medications (30-day supply) and medical items
  • Sanitation and personal hygiene items
  • Copies of personal documents (medication list and pertinent medical information, proof of address, deed/lease to home, passports, birth certificates, insurance policies)
  • Family and emergency contact information
  • Cell phone with chargers (for mains and for the car, you might not be driving anywhere, but if mains power is unavailable, a car battery might save you)
  • Powerbank for charging phones
  • Extra cash
  • Map(s) of the area (preferably with points of interest like water sources already plotted)
  • Duct tape and plastic sheeting (for sealing up windows and/or doors from harmful particles)
  • Alcohol based disinfectant
  • Household chlorine bleach (usable for disinfectant)
  • Personal protective equipment (PPE) is useful for guarding against infectious or otherwise harmful agents, but keep in mind that most are single use and prolonged exposure to chemicals or radiation will likely mean that your PPE is less effective or has no effect at all
  • When sheltering in place hypothermia is usually less of a concern, but if you have a heatsource that works off grid a small stockpile of fuel for that heatsouce might prove invaluable, especially in cold climates. Most people will already have warm clothes and blankets available in their homes
  • If you have babies, children or animals in the house consider special needs (formula, diapers, petfood etc.)

I intentionally left out weapons from the list even though some kind of defensive capability might be sensible to have. Where I live there is very strict regulation on weapons of any kind, even simple “weapons” such as slingshots, clubs or long bladed knives are illegal to own. If you decide to acquire items for self defense, be sure to obey local legislation, and keep guns or similarly dangerous items locked safely away from curious children.

As with part one the list above is by no means complete, but represents what I try to have available for me and my family in case of emergency. Depending on the type of disaster and the climate you live in the most valuable items might differ from the list above.

What do you believe needs to be in a “shelter-in-place kit”?

Danish Woven Christmas Hearts – patterns made with Microsoft office tools

The woven Christmas heart is a Danish tradition founded by H.C. Andersen in the 1860s. The kindergartens helped spread the hearts (around 1910), as it was used to strengthen the children’s creative skills, patience, fine motor skills and self-discipline.

Danish Christmas hearts are woven with two pieces of folded glossy paper traditionally in red and white, but you can chose whatever colors you like.

I find it a lot easier and faster to print the pattern directly on the glossy paper than the old fashioned method where you first make a cardboard template.

  1. Find a template (on google images) that you like. If you are doing this with children or are a beginner or just not that patient, choose a simple classic pattern.
  2. Use a snipping tool to cut around the image (I use the free Microsoft snipping tool).Skærmbillede 2015-11-16 09.58.27
  3. Copy-Past the image into Microsoft word. Change the size to your desire. I use about 9×13 cm (in 3.5×5).Skærmbillede 2015-11-16 10.02.50
  4. Paste the pattern twice to Microsoft paint. Right click on one of the patterns and rotate it 180 degrees. Depending on the pattern you may need to also mirror. If your are making a simple pattern and want to cut with scissors, you only need to paste the pattern once.Skærmbillede 2015-11-16 09.59.15
  5. Align the two patterns.Skærmbillede 2015-11-16 09.59.40
  6. Print the template directly on glossy paper with the lowest quality (you don’t want the ink showing through the finished heart). Make sure that you are printing on the backside of the paper.
  7. Cut out the pattern with a pair of scissors (you can fold the template in the middle for easier cutting) or with a scalpel which is necessary when your are making more advanced hearts.
  8. Now braid
  9. Remember to attach a handle.
  10. Fill it with treats and hang it from the Christmas tree.


Merry Christmas


Disaster Kit – Part 1 (bug out)

When preparing for anything it greatly helps to know what you are preparing for. Although you can’t predict the future, there are different statistical likelihoods that certain events will happen.

Luckily I live in a fairly peaceful part of the world and major earthquakes, hurricanes, volcano eruptions, tsunamis and other natural disasters are unlikely to occur. This fact saves me from a lot of “home improvements” to counter those immediate threats. Don’t get me wrong, I would love to have a bunker in the backyard, I just don’t have a real need for one at the present.

What I am vulnerable to however, is what usually follows any natural disaster, namely the disruption of infrastructure. We have come to rely so much on running water, electricity, phones and internet access that when one, or all of those, stop working, most people have no idea how to cope. History tells us that some degree of chaos and anarchy is likely to follow.

In the following I will try to lay out a basic list of what you should have available in case infrastructure fails for a short time. As even the basic list is fairly extensive I will be dividing this post in two posts based on whether you want to shelter in place or bug out. Part one deals with bugging out.

The scenario

A major disaster just hit your area and has taken out power and landlines. There are still a few mobile providers available, running on backup power, as is the water supply. The disaster is such that you do not expect power to come on again anytime soon, which means whatever infrastructure is still running will soon fail. It’s time to get out of Dodge. Rural roads are still open so you decide to take your car.

This is what you will need (partly compiled from and

  • Extra fuel for your car (about 1000 kilometers / 620 miles worth)
  • At least one spare tire and tools to change tires.
  • Water: One gallon per person (about 4 liters) per day (3-day supply for evacuation)
  • Food: Non-perishable, easy-to-prepare items (3-day supply for evacuation)
  • A way to prepare food (camp stove or similar)
  • Headlamp and/or flashlight (I recommend a good headlamp to keep your hands free)
  • Battery-powered or hand-crank radio (in case you have to ditch the car)
  • Extra batteries
  • First aid kit
  • Medications (7-day supply) and medical items
  • Multi-purpose tool with can opener
  • Sanitation and personal hygiene items
  • Copies of personal documents (medication list and pertinent medical information, proof of address, deed/lease to home, passports, birth certificates, insurance policies)
  • Cell phone with chargers (for mains and for the car)
  • Powerbank for charging phones
  • Family and emergency contact information
  • Extra cash
  • Emergency blankets
  • Map(s) of the area (preferably with suitible escape routes already plotted)
  • Duct tape
  • Soap
  • Alcohol based disinfectant
  • Household chlorine bleach and medicine dropper (bleach can be used as a disinfectant by diluting nine parts water to one part bleach. For emergency water treatment use 16 drops of regular household liquid bleach per gallon of water. Do not use scented, color safe or bleaches with added cleaners)

be_red_cross_ready_horizontalIf you have children or babies consider special needs such as entertainment, diapers, formula etc. The same is applicable for pets (leash, food, ID, water and bowl)

Depending on the type of disaster, you might need to protect yourself from dust or contagions, and for that purpose you will need at least a N95 or FPP3 mask fitted for every family member. Forget about surgical masks as they do little to protect the wearer from dust or infectious agents. Furthermore a good quality chemical protective clothing, with at least type 3 and 4 protection, is nice to have on hand, for added protection from radioactive particles and infectious agents.

Keep in mind that in most survival situation water and heat are your most precious resources, so fill up on water and fuel as long as those resources are still working. Tools for making fire, dry and warm clothing and blankets/sleeping bags can be essential in surviving in cold climates.

Lastly when travelling in a group, a means of communicating (such as two way radios) can prove immensely valuable.

The list above is by no means complete, but it will most likely cover the basic needs and these are the items I have stored for my family. Part two of this post will deal with the scenario of sheltering in place.

Which items do you have in your “bug out” disaster kit?

Mason Jar Animals – Doing It Right

You’ve probably noticed the infinite possibilities with mason jars. Personally I am very fond of the ones with glued on animals and knobs.

mason jar knob

You can find several tutorials on the web already, but I’m sorry to say……they kind of suck. They will tell you that you only need a glue gun and some spray-paint and you’re good to go. I promise you that you will regret it.

Nooo….. you do need more than just a glue gun and some spray-paint

This is what you have to do if your are planning on gluing plastic animals on the lids:

  1. Sand the lids lightly
  2. Wash the lids using basic cleaner
  3. Sand the bottom of the animals feet and be thorough. The greater the contact area is between animal and lid, the better the glue will do its job.
  4. Clean the animals with a toothbrush and basic cleaner.
  5. Remember: After cleaning don’t touch lids or animals before your are completely finished with the project. Any grease will make sure the paint doesn’t stay in its place. Wear clean rubber gloves.
  6. Glue the animal on the lid using super glue (cyanoacrylate seems to work well) – not an ordinary glue gun.
  7. Spray on a base coat of primer – otherwise your paint may slide right of
  8. Spray-painting several thin coats with dry time (about 15 min) in between will give a nice result. Raise the lid above surface of the table so it doesn’t stick.

If you are attaching knobs just do step 1-2, 7-8. Use a drill to punch through the lid and saw of the excess knob screw with a hacksaw.

Remember to spray with the bottle upside down (outside) in between each coat so it dosn’t clog.


Mason Jar Dog

I’m using these jars for toys and dog treats.


Pumpkin Preservation – Scientifically


Pumpkin carving is a fun seasonal activity for kids as well as grownups. Unfortunately carved pumpkins go bad fairly quickly and in the pursuit of making their hard work last a bit longer, several bloggers have sought out ways to minimize microbial growth of moisture loss.

When searching online, different methods are advocated as being THE WAY to preserve your carved pumpkins. There is however no real consensus on the best method.

The experiments used to test the different methods have all had the same obvious flaw. They use different pumpkins to test different methods.

Pumpkins with different genetic makeup will theoretically have different resistance to drying and attack from microorganisms. Likewise the environment the pumpkins grew in, will also likely affect their resistance to said factors.

In this experiment I tested 6 different methods to preserve a carved pumpkin while trying to minimize  the: “no two pumpkins are created equally” problem.


I chose a pumpkin in good condition, divided it into 6 fairly equal size pieces. One of the pieces was left untreated as a control and the remaining 5 pieces were treated with one or more of the following preservation methods:


  1. Rodalon (used undiluted, contains a mix of benzalkoniumcloride and didecyl ammonium chloride in a 2,5 % aquous solution)
  2. Bleach (used undiluted, contains sodium hypochlorite in a 1-5% aquous solution, pH 12,3)
  3. Soap (a type of soap used in Denmark for cleaning with a pH of 11-12)
  4. Clear coat spray paint
  5. Pure silicone spray (automotive product that protects from moisture)

Before starting this experiment I had a theory that the optimal treatment would consist of an initial treatment with a disinfectant, followed by an inert barrier of sorts. To test this, half of the surface area of the pumpkins treated with rodalon, bleach and soap were all treated with a subsequent layer of silicone spray.

To mimic realistic conditions common carving tools were used to process the pumpkin (ice-cream scoop for cleaning out seeds and knife for carving) and no special steps were taken to ensure “sterile” working conditions. All carving was done in a “clean” kitchen environment with tools washed in the dishwasher.

The pumpkin pieces were treated one by one and placed outside near an exterior wall of our house, under the overhang of the roof, but far enough out that any rain would find its way to the pumpkins. The pumpkins were then left untouched with no repeat of the initial treatment until a winner could be announced.


decay large text


After 9 days there was a clear winner. The rodalon treated pumpkin had done far better than any of the others and had next to no signs of microbial growth, while all competing treatments had considerable amounts of microbial growth.  The closest runner-up was the pumpkin treated with bleach, followed by the silicone treated pumpkin and the untreated (control) pumpkin on a joint third place. Surprisingly the silicone spray had no discernible effect on the pumpkins, regardless if the pumpkins had been treated with disinfectant or not. The soap treated pumpkin did slightly worse than the untreated pumpkin and the clear coat treated pumpkin did worst of all.


Truthfully there will probably never be a “gold standard” method for preserving pumpkins. The number of factors influencing the decaying process is staggering. These include, but are not limited to: Type and amount of microorganisms introduced to the pumpkin, tools used to carve and “gut” the pumpkin, temperature, air humidity, precipitation levels, pH levels (in both pumpkin and precipitation), UV levels (uv light kills microorganisms but also degrades bleach) and the pumpkins own resistance to all of the above.


Unless we all start using genetically cloned pumpkins, and tightly control the environment in which the pumpkins are grown, transported, carved and later stored for viewing, different similarly performing preservation methods will come out the winner depending on the environmental factors and the particular pumpkin used.

However under the conditions this pumpkin was tested, Rodalon clearly yielded the best results in preserving our carved pumpkin. Rodalon is a brand name but products containing the same basic ingredients can be found using the US Household products database and searching for either Didecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride or Benzalkonium chloride. Both chemicals are Quaternary ammonium cations and can probably both be used with similar success.

Keep in mind when using strong disinfectants like these, that this is to be done with proper personal protective equipment in a well-ventilated area and is always a job for the grownups. Never mix disinfectants, or other chemicals, as the result can be fatal. As an example mixing bleach with an acid will produce Chlorine gas which will kill you fairly efficiently.

Happy Halloween


Painted Kitchen Utensils

Painted kitchen utensils are all over the web right now and since we needed some new salad servers, I decided to try it out.

Ombre utencilsI gathered some inspiration on Pinterest from Liz and Sarah and ended up with some dark blue acrylic paint.

Preparation is everything so make sure that your utensils are cleaned, as greasy fingerprints will make it difficult for the paint to stick.  Don’t touch the utensils without gloves once you have cleaned them. Sand the handle lightly and you are ready for the paint job.

Remember you should only paint the handle of the utensils due to food safety

I got my (very cheap) utensils from IKEA but you can them a lot of different stores. I painted them twice and gave them two layers of clear coat. In between paint coats I sanded them again as the wood grain rose slightly.

Neon Utencils

Use a good quality masking tape for the border



I tried wasing my new salad servers in the dishwasher og even though they didn’t suffer an immediate death, they didn’t like it that much. I recommend that you wash them by hand.

Painted Kitchen Utelcils

I wonder if it’s possible to use porcelain paint instead (dishwasher safe). Has anyone tried that?

Painting Clean Edges

Our recent addition to the family prompted a space reallocation. M got the old office and A got M’s old room. Most of M’s old room is white, but a single wall was painted with stripes of white and two shades of green. Painting 10 centimeter wide stripes in alternating colors on a whole wall is fairly time consuming, (but a Paint samplescheap alternative to putting up wallpaper) which is why K reassured me that the colors were gender neutral and I would not have to repaint the room, if we got a girl at some point. Turns out gender neutral colors change over time and  3 years later we are repainting (purple with a white border)……deep down I guess I knew this would happen.

This is what I learned about how to get those perfect sharp edges:

  1. Get a good quality masking tape, which will make removing the tape cleanly a lot easier.
  2. You will need two colors of paint, even if your wall is allready the color you want as a base. Even the best masking tape will still let some paint bleed under the edge of the tape and the only way to get around that problem, is to control which color bleeds under the edge.

The process is best explained with an example. Say you have a white wall and you want to paint a purple stripe on it.

  1. Start by masking off the border of the purple line, making sure to press the masking tape thouroughly to the wall.
  2. Paint the border of the tape you want to end up as purple, white (the base color) and let it dry. ThisMasking tape allows the white paint to bleed under any part of the tape that is not completely closed off.
  3. Paint the stripe purple, making sure not to go beyond the outer border of the masking tape.
  4. When you have finished with the last layer of purple, peel off the masking tape carefully to reveal a nice clean border between the two colors.

Keep your brushes in a closed plastic bag and you will be able to paint with them over and over again without rinsing, for at least a week.

EdgesSo A’ room now has a purple wall and I thought the room was finished, but last week I overheard K telling some friends that she has some regrets about the color and now wants wallpaper instead!!!……….

Pumpkin Pie & a Failed Pinecone Paint Project

I never had Pumpkin Pie before, but according to Pinterest everyone is eating Pumpkin Pie this time of year, and with so many people eating the same thing, it must be good. Unfortunately Pumkin Pie is not at tradition where I live, so I had to make some myself to get a taste.

Pumpkin PieI looked for an easy  recipe for beginners and found Easy Foolproof Pumpkin Pie. Sounded promising. This recipe suggest that you use canned pumpkin and that’s absolutely fine by me, except for the fact that I couldn’t find it anywhere. The only solution was to make the puree myself. I used this recipe for Pumpkin Puree and because I chose Hokkaido pumpkins I could skip the peeling part. You simply put the roasted pumpkins and the rest of the ingredients in the food processor and that’s that.  Very easy. I don’t know what happened to the surface of the pie though. It certainly doesn’t look like Lindsey’s, but it did taste great.

Pumpkin PieYes… this is the right amount of whipped cream




After pie eating we had a little DIY planned. I saw this post on how to paint pinecones and thought it would be a fun little project for M and I. The look we where going for was something like this:

but O’s first comment when he saw our work was that they looked kind of like old dog turds.

Painted Pinecones


Thank you very much darling…..